Jewelry Designers Seeing Blue

JCK, Jewelers Circular Keystone, a jewelry industry publication, recently published a trend-watch article that reminds jewelry designers that not only are fashion trends a great source of ideas, but that many clients see jewelry as wardrobe accessories, and not the other way around.



JCK reviewed a number of publications, including Marie Claire, Harper’s Bazaar and InStyle magazines. After examining the mix of advertising from these trend setting publications, JCK declared that this is a "deep blue season" with blues of various shades playing a major role in this season’s wardrobes.



For jewelry designers who use gemstones in their work, this means revisiting some timeless favorites, lapis lazuli and blue sapphire, for example.



It also means that jewelry designers, including bead and pearl stringers, should take a look at some not so familiar materials.



The gem quartz chalcedony has been used in jewelry for centuries. The Romans, for example, carved chalcedony into seals and signet rings and Christians in the Middle Ages used it to carve scenes of the crucifixion and martyrdom, the reason it is sometimes called Martyr’s Stone. Varieties of chalcedony are familiar to jewelry designers as chrysoprase, onyx, carnelian and agate. Blue chalcedony, however, it has recently enjoyed a resurgence in popularity among jewelry designers. The best blue chalcedony is a glowing, translucent blue. It is often cut as a cabochon, but beads are also available. Look for chalcedony with a vibrant usually lightish blue and avoid lower quality chalcedony which shows grey.



Iolite is sometimes called water sapphire, a misnomer. It is a rich purple blue, named from the Greek ios meaning violet. Leif Eriksson, the legendary Viking explorer, was said to have used thin slices of iolite as a polarizing filter helping him to navigate safely to the new world and back. Iolite has extreme pleochrosim which means that it shows different colors in different directions. In one direction, it can show violet blue, in another, very light blue, and in still another it can show a honey yellow. A very affordable gemstone, iolite is often overlooked by jewelry designers.



Although aquamarine is prized as a stone and is often seen in earrings, rings and pendants, it is also available in beads in a variety of cuts, including cylinders, tubes, and faceted rounds. Aquamarine is a blue-green or blue variety of beryl which also includes emeralds, morganite and heliodor. Aquamarine beads can be surprisingly affordable.



In thinking about this season’s colors, don’t forget pearls. Pearls harmonize beautifully with blue wardrobes and also with blue gemstones. In recent years, Chinese freshwater pearls have grown in quality and are available in a variety of colors. Nearly all Chinese freshwaters are baroque, that is, they are not true rounds. But connoisseurs love the variety of their shapes and the depth of their luster.



As jewelry designers, we sometimes tend to design for ourselves. The JCK article is an excellent reminder that fashion trends can be a great source of ideas and just as important that many clients regard jewelry as accessories for their wardrobes and not as objects to build a wardrobe around.





Fleury Sommers is a goldsmith, pearl and bead stringer and has studied gemology for more than 25 years. She operated a gallery in Houston, Texas for more than ten years and is the creator of the comprehensive Professional Pearl and Bead Stringing course available on her website.